Rock the Rock and Rock 'n' Roll

Month: December 2012

Jakob Schubert redpointed Ciudad de Dios 9a

Second day in Santa Linya Spain and Jakob Schubert has already sent another 9a. The Austrian made short work of Ciudad de Dios, the climb freed by Edu Marin at the enormous overhanging cave Santa Linya in 2009. This is the Lead World Champion’s fourth 9th grade route, after Papichulo 9a+ at Oliana, Hades 9a at Nassereith in Austria and Underground 9a at Arco in Italy.

Markus Bock adds new desperates to the Frankenjura

Markus Bock has made the first ascent of four hard new climbs in Germany’s Frankenjura, Reunion (8c), The Obsessed (8c+), The 4 Horsemen (8c+) and Witchtripper (9a).

It may seem impossible but Markus Bock continues to forage new lines up the tiny limestone pockets and crimps in his home Frankenjura. Of late the German climber has come up trumps with another poker of hard first ascents and on his blog he states “I’ve managed to free some really great 11th grade routes from their project status, namely Reunion (8c), The Obsessed (8c+), The 4 Horsemen (8c+) and Witchtripper (9a).” It goes without saying that Bock knows the Frankenjura extremes like few others, as can be seen from his first ascent list published below.

Frankenjura first ascents:

  • The Man That Follows Hell 9a+ M. Bock 2009
  • Corona 9a+ M. Bock 2006
  • The Elder Statesman 9a/9a+ M. Bock 2011
  • Witchtripper 9a M. Bock 2012
  • Pantera 9a M. Bock 2009
  • Der Heiliger Gral 9a M. Bock     2005
  • Unplugged 9a M. Bock 2004
  • Matador 9a M. Bock 2007
  • House Of Shock 8c+/9a M. Bock 2012
  • The 4 Horsemen 8c+ M. Bock 2012
  • The Obsessed 8c+ M. Bock 2012
  • The Last Rides 8c+ M. Bock 2011
  • Three Suns And One Star 8c+ M. Bock 2008
  • Sniper 8c+ M. Bock 2003
  • Vanquish 8c+ M. Bock 2004
  • Monolithic Baby! 8c+ M. Bock 2004
  • Hattori Hanzo 8c+ M. Bock 2005
  • Planets Collide 8c+ M. Bock 2007

Climbing makes its pitch to enter Olympics

Representatives of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) are meeting in Switzerland today with the International Olympic Committee Program Commission to make the case for climbing to enter the Olympics, starting with the 2020 Games. Climbing is competing with six other short-listed sports to join the Olympics: baseball/softball, karate, roller sports, squash, wakeboaring, and wushu. The IOC Program Commission must decide which sport to cut from the Summer Olympics and which to add.

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Annapurna Pioneer Herzog dies

The French climber Maurice Herzog, who climbed Annapurna in June 1950, died yesterday at age 93. Herzog and Louis Lachenal summited 26,545-foot (8,091-meter) Annapurna in Nepal, the 10th-highest mountain in the world, on June 3, 1950, becoming the first people ever to climb an 8,000-meter peak. Both men suffered serious frostbite, losing numerous digits.

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The Promise

Britain’s top climbers tackling some of the highest and hardest problems. From the tough, mentally challenging highballs on the gritstone edges such as “The Promise” graded 7c which you can see as a preview of the movie “Life On Hold”.

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‘Legends Only’, Sean McColl wins in Stockholm

The second “Legends Only” boulder competition, organised by La Sportiva took place in Sweden Stockholm. Those invited to take part are Dmitry Sharafutdinov, Adam Ondra, Sean McColl, Jakob Schubert and Guillaume Glairon Mondet.

Building on last year’s success, La Sportiva has organised another Legends Only bouldering competition in Stockholm. The format involves five of the world’s best boulderers competing on five problems, the particularity being that the problems can be attempted for a couple of hours the day beforehand Continue reading

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